Burke Griggs shooting Ansel Adams-style (sort of) from the roof of the old Dow Villa Hotel
Owens Valley Accommodations
True destination lodging is scarce in these parts. There are a number of half-abandoned scary-movie motels at regular intervals along Highway 14 before its junction with 395 (many in the business of renting dry acreage to cell phone service providers). There is something of a B&B, open only on weekends, in the former ghost town of Randsburg. There are motels in Ridgecrest catering mostly to those coming in or out of the China Lake Naval Weapons Station. Every town on 395, from Olancha to Bishop, has at least two motels, some of which are remarkable examples of past booms in travel and tourism, first in the late 1920’s and early ‘30’s, then again in the post-war era. Many of these establishments seem to have been neglected since the day they opened. Others prove quite serviceable...
See THE BOOK for detailed reviews and logistics, camping information, dining, shopping, history and recreation. Click establishment name to visit website.
* denotes special recommendation
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Cerro Gordo
The mining camp that built the port of Los Angeles, founded in the 1860's.-
(5,500 feet above Keeler; 760-876-5030) The two-bedroom, one-bath, Belshaw House (c. 1868)--kitchen, indoor plumbing, Franklin stove and barely-fathomable views across the Owens Playa to the Sierra. Plus the six-room Bunkhouse (1904), ideal for groups.
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Lone Pine
“They keep all the good customs brought out of Old Mexico or bred in the lotus-eating land," wrote Mary Austin of LP in 1904, "drink, and are merry and look out for something to eat afterward." Book early for Film Festival (first weekend in October)-
(310 South Main Street (U.S. 395), Lone Pine; 760-876-5521, 800-824-9317) The Duke first slept here in 1935. In 1978, doing a commercial for Great Western Bank (his last appearance on film), he stayed in room 20 in the motel. Hotel is the value option.
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Independence
Founded as a U.S. Army camp during a period of white settlement, Indian trouble and general violence (1862-1877), now county seat for the least populated county in California. Boasts a fine French-colonial bistro, hotel, gas, museum and courthouse.-
(U.S. 395, across from the courthouse where Manson was first arraigned; 760-878-2040) Built in 1927, there is no better place to stay on the old Kearsarge trail, or after a lamb couscous and a bottle of wine at the Still Life Cafe. New owners.
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Bishop
Main population and supply center for the Eastern Sierra, the only incorporated settlement in Inyo County, internationally-renowned climbing Mecca and uncontested Mule Capitol of the world. Book early for Mule Days (Memorial Day Weekend).-
(725 North Main Street; 760-872-3044)
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(651 North Main Street; 760-873-6380)
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(376 West Yaney Street, Bishop; 760-872-3389) Ranch-style B&B.
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(213 Academy Street, Bishop; 760-872-1790) Classic victorian B&B, built 1898, childhood home of local historian and newspaperman W. A. Chalfant.
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Benton
For centuries travelers of all stripes have been drawn out of their way, across windswept wastes of sagebrush and piñon, for the simple pleasure of a good soak in the hot springs at Benton.-
(CA 120; 760-933-2287) Ranch-style motel/inn, springwater-heated tile floors, locally-salvaged Victorian furnishings. The road to Mammoth is plowed all winter. Private tubs available for day use with advance reservations, and for overnight camping.
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